1810.

The pleasant and much frequented hamlet of Tunbridge Wells may be considered as an object not unworthy of notice from several of its prominent features. Nature has eminently favored it by the salubrity of its air, the potency of its mineral springs, and the adjacent appendages of a gay, romantic, and pleasing scenery, which art has not presumed to spoil by attempts at refinement unsuited to its character. This combination of favorable circumstances holds forth the promise of pleasure and advantage in no ordinary degree.

It has accordingly become, for a long course of time, the resort of the fashionable, the refuge of the invalid, and the never-failing resourse of the inexhaustible tribe of listless wanderers, who seek a. rescue from the ennui of a mere country retirement, when the gaieties of the metropolis have ceased. It may excite some curiosity on another account. There is now scarcely a county, a maritime one at least, which does not contain a place of similar public resort. Tunbridge Wells may be considered as the parent of the race. It is the most ancient public place (with the exception of Bath, its contemporary, but with which it admits not of comparison) in the kingdom.

The customs, the habits, the arrangement of society, which are now so precisely modified and so widely diffused as to have become, in some measure, national characteristics, were here originally formed and nurtured: and, although the parent place has materially varied from its origin, yet doth it still retain a character, with which it is presumed the public may not be sorry to be made further acquainted.

The buildings, which constitute the hamlet of Tunbridge Wells, are dispersed partly through a valley and in part over the adjacent hills of a wild forest aspect, with rocks of considerable magnitude. It is situate at the distance of thirty-six miles from London, in the three adjoining parishes of Tunbridge, Speldhurst, and Frant; the two former being in the county of Kent and the latter in that of Sussex: the whole collectively occupying a spot at the point of contact of the antient forests of South Frith, Waterdown, and Bishop's Down. This singularity of position is to be accounted for by the different proprietors of the adjacent lands wishing to benefit themselves by a speculation from the influx of visitors to the neighbouring spring; which of course gave the direction to the proper points for its exertion.

As its mineral water partakes of the nature of those of the German Spa, so it is observed that the character and general aspect of the place much resembles that celebrated and favorite rendezvous of the fashionables of every European country. Of the hills the most considerable in point of extent and accommodation is that, which is called Mount Sion.

Another less populous, but more picturesque, is appropriately named Mount Pleasant; whilst the highest and that which affords the greatest range, overlooking the others, and combining with the intermediate common, enjoying from its greater elevation the salubrious and refreshing breezes from the Sussex coast, is dignified by the sounding appellation of Mount Ephraim. The valley which is formed by these surrounding hills (through which the small stream, whereby the counties of Kent and Sussex are divided, flows,) contains the baths, the mineral spring, the public rooms, walks, and taverns ; and is pre-eminently distinguished by the comprehensive name of the Wells.

This assemblage of buildings, erected apparently without a plan or semblance of regularity, interspersed with trees, and aided by the wild aspect of the surrounding scenery, has a striking effect on a first view; and, as it presents itself from the,various points of elevated ground in the vicinity, affords an endless variety of pleasing objects to the invalid in his pursuit of health, and to the admirer of picturesque scenery in his more extended researches.

It is the intention of the following work to make the reader acquainted with some of the many objects, which are most calculated to excite the notice of strangers, within the range of a morning excursion. These the pencil, it is hoped, may, faithfully represent. But the beauty of the country, through which the traveller must pass, before he attains a sight of these objects - the infinite variety of the rides - the exquisite purity of the air, peculiarly to invalids - and lastly, the interest arising from the local history, of many of these places - admit not of description.

It may however safely be asserted, that no single spot in the kingdom contains, within the same compass, so rich a variety of these particulars, or is better calculated to reward the enquirer, whatever may be his individual pursuit.

But it will be expected that some information should be given on the discovery of the mineral water, and the consequent establishment of the public place. The chalybeate water, which has now, for so long a time, formed the principal attraction to Tunbridge Wells, was probably known and esteemed in the neighbourhood long before it excited general attention. Indeed it would appear that a similar spring, though of much inferior power, had heretofore been known for its medicinal qualities in the neighbourhood. This is situate in the Priory grounds at Tunbridge, and was called St. Margaret's Well.

Such were the obstructions to travelling, and of so confined a nature were the prevailing habits of the times alluded to, that the peculiar features of a spot were little known beyond its immediate vicinity: and indeed, had its qualities been more extensively communicated, few persons were at that time able or willing to migrate far, even in the pursuit of health. About the commencement of the seventeenth century, accident made known the virtues of this medicinal water; and its salubrious effects on a person of distinction, tended speedily to recommend it to general notice.

Dudley Lord North, a. young nobleman of lively parts but dissolute manners, in the court of James the First, having in early life much injured his constitution, had retired, for the benefit of a pure air, and the accessory advantages of a retreat from his usual habits of dissipation, to Eridge House, the occasional residence of the Barons of Bergavenny. During this state of seclusion, his attention was excited in the course of his wanderings through this wild country, by the ochreous aspect of the water in the neighbourhood. Intent on the amendment of his injured constitution, he seems to have been struck with the singularity, and speedily cherished the hope that it might prove medicinal, and applicable to his own particular case. Experiment proved that it was so: and experience demonstrated that chance had thus cast in his way a treasure of the rarest worth. Having consulted his medical advisers on the subject, and derived encouragement from their opinions, he returned the ensuing summer and drank perseveringly of the newly-discovered medicine. This effort was attended with the most encouraging success; and, being in consequence completely re-instated in his health, he survived to the very advanced age of eighty-five.

Numbers had probably, before Lord North, experienced similar benefit from these waters; but, as with less notice, so likewise with smaller consequence. His name, and the interest taken in his welfare, rendered the case of extensive notoriety; and the effect has been, that the name of Dudley Lord North stands prominent, as being, in some measure, the founder of the celebrity of Tunbridge Wells. In a curious work of his, entitled, " A Forest promiscuous of several Seasons production," printed in the year 1637, written in the quaint style of the times, he states in a marginal note -
"The use of Tunbridge and Epsom waters, for health and
" cure, I first made known to London arid the king's people: the Spaw is
" a chargeable and inconvenient journey to sick bodies, besides the money
" it carries out of the kingdom, and inconvenience to religion. Much more
" I could say, but I rather hint than handle, - rather open a door to a
" large prospect than give it."

Yet did a considerable period elapse before any advance was made towards its establishment as a place of public resort. The nobility at that time chiefly occupied their own splendid mansions; duly exercising therein a dignified hospitality: the gentry of moderate fortune were, from necessity, attached and confined to the spots, from whence they derived their revenue; whilst the mercantile world, now so liberal and enlightened, possessing few ideas beyond the limits of their occupations, rarely emerged from the confines of their counting houses. The other classes of society, possessing neither the means nor the leisure for loitering away their time in amusement or dissipation, rarely looked beyond the domestic circle for alleviation to their ordinary cares. Although, therefore, this medicinal spring soon attained a more extended celebrity, yet was it, for many of the succeeding years, visited only by the solitary wanderer in the pursuit of health; and persons of this description readily took up with such accommodations, as the adjacent villages and hamlets afforded. These were chiefly procured at Tunbridge, a small neat town situate on the river Medway, at the distance of six miles from the spring; formerly distinguished for its strongly fortified castle, and now principally noticeable for its venerable ruin.

It is from this accidental circumstance that the Wells attained their present name, rather than that of Speldhurst or Frant, to which, from strict locality, they have a preferable claim. For several years this continued to be the case; until a greater influx of visitors, some of them persons of distinction, gave a spur to industry and speculation; when buildings were erected, some at Southborough, mid-way between the Wells and Tunbridge, and others on Rust-Hall Common, at a smaller distance, in the opposite direction. Still however the immediate vicinity of the spring retained its forest and dreary aspect; and for a considerable time the accommodation for visitants on the spot was limited to two very humble cottages - the one, very near the spring, being a coffee-house for the ladies; - whilst the other, near to the spot now occupied by the Sussex Tavern, was characteristically denominated the Gentleman's Pipe-house.

In this state did the circumstances of the place remain during the turbulencies of the unfortunate reign of Charles the First; and here, as elsewhere, the spirit of party tended to separate persons, who were attracted to the spot by a common object - the republicans holding their assemblies at Rust-Hall [ On- passing over Rust-Hall Common, keeping the course of the turnpike road, a pit is observable on the right hand, immediately opposite a large pollard beach; this pit was the cellar belonging to the tavern and assembly rooms ] ; whilst the partisans of the court took up their in residence the opposite hamlet of Southborough. At the return of quieter times speculation took a safer and a feer range; the buildings for the accommodation of visitants increased in various directions ; still however, as it would appear, under the influence of party.

Toward the close of the reign of Charles the Second the present divisions of the place seem to have been established ; and a few buildings erected thereon. The names, which they still retain, bespeak the parties, who projected and promoted these improvernents, Mount Sion was the spot favored by the Presbyterians and Independants, on which hill they had their separate conventicles; whilst Mount Ephraim was distinguished as the field of speculation with the Baptists; where this sect, now dwindled almost to nothing, still retains a meeting-house and burial-ground on the spot now exclusively denominated Bishop's Down.

These establishments were all anterior to any for the service of the Church of England, and tend materially to shew the religious and political principles, which chiefly prevailed in the neighbourhood. It was not till toward the close of the seventeenth century that a place of worship for a congregation of the established church was deemed necessary. This was effected by a subscription, commenced in the year 1676, and closed in the year 1688, which exceeded the sum of £3000. Various landholders in the neighbourhood contributed timber, and the Lady Viscountess Purbeck, then the proprietor of Summer-Hill, gave land, in the parish of Tunbridge, for the purpose of erecting a chapel thereon; which grant (in consequence of some previous irregularity) was, by a deed of trust bearing date Feb. 15, 1703, confirmed by her son John Earl of Buckingham. On this ground, and with these funds, a handsome spacious, chapel was erected; wherein divine service still continues to be regularly performed, every day during the summer season, and three times a week during the winter. The fund for the repair and maintenance of this building arises from money collected at a charity sermon in the course of the season, and some casual bequests. The salary for the officiating minister is raised by a subscription among the visitors. An erroneous idea has long prevailed that this chapel is placed in the singular situation of occupying in its scite, portions of three parishes and two counties, viz. Speldhurst and Tunbridge in Kent and Frant in Sussex. Had such been the object it might certainly have been the case; for these parishes are actually in contact at a very small distance from the chapel. But the idea is altogether unfounded; and has probably arisen and been cherished from some motives of interest. The original deed of gift specifies the land, given by the Earl of Buckingham, to be all in Tunbridge parish: and indeed it could not well have been otherwise, for it is a gift from the lord of the manor of South Frith of a portion of his manor, which on this side was coextensive With the parish of Tunbridge, and is stated io abut on Water Down Forest, which is the boundary of Speldhurst.

About the same period of time the walks and assembly rooms were arranged according to their present form. It was somewhat earlier that the grounds had been cleared in the neighbourhood of the spring, and a turf terrace formed in the direction of the existing parade; a row of trees had at the same time been planted, and mean temporary buildings erected for the accommodation of the vagrant tradesmen, who attended during the season with wares of various description. Such was the state of the place during the residence of the court in the neighbourhood, as recorded in the Memoires du Compt De Grammont. About the year l676, an anangement took place between the lord of the manor and his freehold tenants, whereby the latter were enabled to erect more substantial buildings, which they accordingly effected; but a fire breaking out a few years after, the timber houses were speedily consumed; and about the yeaf 1687 the spot was reoccupied by the present buildings. This accomodating lease, whereby the tenants on the manor were enabled to improve the place, and doubtless to benefit themselves, became, at the period of its expiration, the source of much unpleasant contest betwixt the parties: but eventually of decided advantage to the place . The landlord claimed the buildings left on his freehold, but the disappointed tenants, who had expected a renewal, of their term, exacted a compensation for the loss of their herbage, whereof they were deprived by the continuance of the buildings. The parties were little inclined to accommodation; and, in pursuit of their arbitrary claims, spent more in litigation than the objects in contention were worth. Having thus dearly purchased experience, they were at last inclined to listen to terms; which were finally settled by an amicable arrangement. The lord was adjudged to be entitled to two-thirds of the buildings in question, and the tenants were remunerated for their disappointment, and loss of herbage, by the other third. But the wisdom of the arbitrators did not stop here: it was determined that the spirit of dispute and litigation should be quelled for ever; and accordingly, by general consent of parties, an act of parliament was procured, which tended to put all questions of this description completely at rest. By this act, which received the royal assent April 29, 1740, various arrangements for the advantage of the property, and for the benefit of individuals concerned in it, are made: but that which has proved of most real benefit to the place, as well as of essential comfort to every one who frequents it, is a restricting clause, whereby it is declared illegal to erect any buildings on the Common, or, in short, to build on any spot whereon a building had not previously existed. To this act Tunbridge Wells may be said to owe its continued prosperity; without it, it might have been increased by buildings, rivalling those of St. George's Fields; and its houses tenanted by company issuing from the deserted brothels of the metropolis: but it would not have continued to yield attractions to the lovers of pure air and romantic scenery; nor would it be distinguished, as is now the case, as the resort of the best and most respectable families.

Thus has the general history of the place been brought down to its present state. But a difference in the manners of former times will render it necessary further to remark on some circumstances, which the existing case would not seem to countenance. As the place advanced in prosperity so did the thirst of amusement keep pace. Dulce est decipere was the prevailing sentiment with all parties; though diversity of opinion still seemed to keep up a separation, as to the place and mode of entertainment.

The republicans transferred their ballroom and tavern from Rust-Hall to Mount Ephraim; whilst the adverse party maintained similar places of amusement on Mount Sion and the Walks: and, in unison with the manners of those times, a bowling green, for the purpose as well of bowls as for dancing, was an appendage on each situation. These accommodations on Mount Ephraim, declining with the improvements in more convenient situations, have long ceased to exist. The bowling green on Mount Sion has continued and been frequented till within twenty-five years; when the house of entertainment was converted into lodging houses, which were from this circumstance, called the Bowling-green houses; until one, which had for many years been the residence of Richard Cumberland, Esq. a warm frienid of the place and the patron of every thing for its advantage, on his leaving it, was by the proprietor in token of his respect, distinguished by his name - a designation, in which the inhabitants have most readily concurred.

About the commencement of the last century Mount Sion experienced a material accession of dignity and elegance from the bounty of John Earl of Buckingham; the same who had, not long before, given the land whereon the chapel was erected. By a deed bearing the date of April 20th, 1703, this nobleman conveyed to a trust, for the amusement and recreation of the visitors to Tunbridge Wells, about four acres of land, covered with very fine oaks and beeches. It has ever since been maintained for this purpose: and although it has never obtained the public sanction, as a place of fashionable resort, yet it affords a pleasant retreat to invalids in sultry weather; and, from its very fortunate position, adds materially to the general beauty of the place.

As Mount Sion has its grove, it must not fail to be recorded that Mount Ephraim also possesses a similar ornament: which, although it cannot rival the other, yet derives its origin from a circumstance which gives an interest in its history.

Tunbridge Wells has at various periods been honored with the presence of members of the Royal Family. That of King Charles the Second and his court has been already noticed; and will again be brought under review. The queen of his unfortunate predecessor was also a visitor to this spot. But the place was especially indebted for much of its early celebrity to the frequent visits of Queen Anne, previous to her accession to the crown. She was exquisitely fond of the place; and proved a liberal benefactor to it. She gave, as a lasting token of her bounty, the stone bason for the spring; from which circumstance it was afterwards called the Queen's Well. She likewise contributed an hundred pounds towards the improvement of the Walks; which, being in consequence paved with a baked tile, were thenceforth called the Pantiles. This name however (on the walks being, a few years since, handsomely repaved with stone, by means of a subscription among the inhabitants,) has now been exchanged for that of the Parade. On her accession to the throne, the inhabitants, wishing to perpetuate the remembrance of her many acts of kindness, planted, on that part of the common, whereon she had usually been encamped, a triple row of birch trees; which from this circumstance has attained the name of the QUEEN'S GROVE. The spot, being one of the most cheerful, and partaking of the best air, not only of the vicinity, but perhaps of the whole kingdom, has become a general favorite with the visitors to the Wells. Here is always to be found a cooling breeze; and till of late years a comfortable shade. But time begins to prove that the projectors of this scheme were less wise than loyal. They selected for their purpose too perishable a tree: and it is much to be apprehended that the monument, far from being aere perennius, will very speedily be lost, together with all recollection of the circumstance, which gave occasion to it.

The rise and progress of the place having thus been detailed, it will be expected that some account should be added of the original system of manners and customs; their advance towards perfection; and the state, whereunto they have subsided in the present day.

The customs, which prevailed in the very early periods of the place, can now with difficulty be ascertained. As, with most places in their infancy, the manners were doubtless simple: and as the associations were small, the diversions also were limited. As buildings for the accommodation of guests multiplied, so we find the provision for amusement kept pace.

But this occurred in unquiet times - in times indeed of unusual acrimony; when separation seems studiously to have prevailed, even in the pursuit of pleasure. The first direct testimony, which we possess of a general system of amusement, prevailing in the place, is contained in the lively record of the Memoires de Grammont; wherein is detailed the visit of Charles's dissipated court. It would seem that at this period there were no houses on the spot now called Tunbridge Wells, capable of affording the requisite accommodation.

Such at least is the tradition, which records that the court took up their residence chiefly at two houses, yet in existence, though now occupied only by paupers, near the turnpike road at Southborough; whilst others were accommodated at Summer Hill, then the property and residence of Lord Muskerry. It is however to be observed, that there were at this time several houses in the vicinity of Southborough much better calculated for this purpose, which have been pulled down. There was one in particular of large dimensions, adjoining to the spot now called Non-such Green, which was named Non-such House. It has long since been destroyed; and the inn at Tunbridge and some adjoining houses, as report says, were built with the materials.

At that time, it would appear that a certain foundation for social harmony was established in the place; and the pursuit of pleasure was reduced to a regular system. From hence we may date that arrangement of manners, which has since prevailed. The company which assembled on the spot were then few in numbers, but select in rank arid condition; and the assemblage tended to create that amoenity of habit, which under the influence of a dissolute court, altered in a considerable degree tine national character. The description of the place, the system of amusement, and the general plan of occupation, is so admirably described by the lively pen of the author of these Memoires, that the end of elucidating this period of the social history of the Wells cannot be better answered than by transferring the extract in question into these pages.

1664.
"La cour partit un mois après pour en passer près de deux
" dans le lieu .de 1'Europe le plus simplest le plus rustique, mais le plus
" agréable et le-plus divertissant.
" Tunnebrige est a la même distance de Londres que Fontainebleau
" l'est de Paris. Ce qu'il y a de beau et de galant dans l'un et dans
" l'autre Sexe s'y rassemble au terns des eaux. La compagnie toujours
" nombreuse y est toujours choisie: comme ceux qui ne cherchent qu'a,
" se divertir, l'emportent toujours sur le nombre de ceux qui n'y vont
" que par nécessité, tout y respire les plaisirs et la joie. La contrainte
" en est bannie; la familiarité établie des la premiere connoissance; et .la
" vie qu' on y mene est délicieuse.
"On a pour logement de petites habitations propres et commodes,
" sépareés les unes des autres, et repandues par-tout à une demie lieue des
" eaux. On s 'assemble le matin à l'endroit ou sont les fontaines. C' est
"une grande allée d'arbres touffus, sous lesquels on se promene en
" prenant les eaux. D'un côté de cette allée regne une longue suite de
"boutiques garnies de toutes sortes de bijoux, de dentelles, de bas et de
" gants, ou l'on va jouer comme on fait à la Foire. De l'autre côté de
" I'allée se tient le marché; et comme chacun y va choisir et marchander
" ses provisions, on n'y. voit. point d'étalage, qui soit dégoutant. Ce sont
" de petites Villageoises blondes, fraîches, avec du linge bien blanc, de
" petits chapeaux de paille, et proprement chaussées, qui vendent du
" gibier, des 1égumes, des fleurs et du fruit. On y fait aussi si bonne
" chere qu' on veut. On y joue gros jeu, et les tendres commerces y vont
" leur train. Dès que le soir arrive, chacun quitte son petit palais pour
" s'assembler au Boulingrin. C'est la, qu'en plein air, on danse, si l'on
" veut, sur un gazon plus doux et plus uni que les plus beaux tapis du
" monde."
Mem. Du Comte De Grammont, tom. ii. 220 - 222.

Those, who are acquainted with Tunbridge Wells and the adjacent country, will probably assent to the fidelity of the first part of the above description; whilst others, who have long frequented the place, and paid due attention to the customs which have, till of very late years, prevailed, will be struck with the very minute coincidence, which has subsisted through so long a period of time. The account of the customs of the place would have exactly characterized those of twenty years past. Nor is the local description less accurate in appearance; and yet neither the present buildings nor trees were at that time in existence. This has already been accounted for: the plan of the present scene of amusement is the original one; and the buildings have been improved and renovated on the very scites, whereon the meaner accommodations, above described, had been erected.

This visit of the Court however, not only proved a spur to exertion for the improvement of the place; but as the Queen had derived much benefit from the waters, and as the festivities, which had taken place, had attracted unusual numbers to the spot, the Wells attained a great increase of celebrity; not only from the medicinal qualities of the waters, but as a place of gaiety and amusement. Gaming was the folly of the day. It was promoted at this time by the residence of the Court.

It is one of the worst effects of this vice that it tends more than any other to level distinctions in rank; and, by the introduction of degraded characters, to pollute the best sources of society. This evil was experienced in future at the Wells. In such a place there was an ease and facility of association, which gave a ready admission to all persons of an external decency of conduct; and, whist public gaming tables held forth the invitation, there could be no want of candidates for the benefit of it.

From this time Tunbridge Wells seems to have afforded attractions to visitors of every description. Persons of the highest rank did not cease to frequent it; but henceforth the mixture was considerable: and the former simplicity of manners no longer prevailed. Like other communities, which, in an infant state, preserve internal harmony from a failure of the principles of discord, Tunbridge Wells had hitherto subsisted without the necessity of laws: but, as its boundaries extended and its manners became irregular, something like coercion was found necessary to give stability to the more extended system of pleasure. This would appear for a time to have been effected by the decided influence of certain persons of rank, to which, at that time, it was customary to yield a suitable degree of deference. But, as the community increased, and the influx became more promiscuous, this task of interference became obnoxious; and something in the shape of an official character was wanted, who could frame laws for tfie regulation of pleasure, reduce them into system, and enforce their observance.

In the early part of the last century this character presented himself to the public in the person of the celebrated Mr. Nash, commonly called Beau Nash; the first Arbiter Elegantiarum of an English public place: and, if not actually the founder, at least their effective guide and regulator.

Mr. Nash found this place, as well as Bath, the resort of the very best company; yet at the same time containing a mixture of the lowest and most degraded characters, who frequented it with a view to prey on the imprudent and unsuspicious. All were intent on amusement, and not disinclined to yield it to each other; but with a reluctance and suspicion, characteristic of our countrymen, unable to forward their own wishes, and unwilling to sacrifice a little of their ease to promote general enjoyment. He was well qualified to supply these deficiencies. A gentleman by birth and education, but an adventurer from necessity, and a gamester both from inclination and resource, he possessed the means of introduction to all parties. His manners were easy, his address insinuating, and his effrontery by no means inconsiderable. He speedily contrived to establish an authority in promoting and regulating the public amusements; whilst he derived no trifling emoluments by the stipulated fees, which he exacted from the gaming tables. These he encouraged, but at the same time restricted within bounds of tolerable moderation. These circumstances imperceptibly invested him with considerable power; which he asserted with jealousy, and enforced with rigour. His word became a law; to which the proudest of the nobility found it useful to submit. In a word, he assumed the mock title of king; and seems to have participated in many of its prerogatives.

Under the arbitrary administration of this singular character it was the first law of the place that every visitant should live in public. The lodging houses were merely places of accommodation for eating and sleeping; and, for the most part, the temporary inhabitants sought no further space in them than what was physically necessary for those purposes. The whole of their intermediate time was spent on the walks, in the assembly rooms, in pleasurable excursions, or at chapel: for this last formed a considerable part of every day's occupation; the service was constantly performed twice in the day; how religiously attended cannot be ascertained. Pure and impure, however, participated; and possibly there was as little religion in the chapel as in the ball-room. But it was the fashion. Thus every hour of the day had its allotted occupation: the whole was regularly digested into system: and, from the nobleman of the first rank to the meanest visitor, all were compelled to obey, and yield to the established customs.

But this character, who for so long a time swayed the sceptre of pleasure n this place, was not always able to do it under an equal range of individual prosperity: his revenues were precarious, and these were indirectly attacked by a tribunal more arbitrary than his own. Gaming was, at the time alluded to, carried on to so alarming and injurious an excess as to provoke the interference of the legislature; and successive statutes were passed, whereby the existing games were declared illegal and the exercise of them subject to severe penalties and summary adjudication, Tunbridge Wells had long been the chief summer rendezvous of the most notorious professors of this art; who, feeding on the more affluent visitors, in turn, contributed largely to the maintenance of the great minister of their pleasures. The new statutes acted as a severe blow on the administration of the place. But the plans of gamesters are not so easily restricted. New games were invented, whereby the laws were for a time evaded; and Mr. Nash's protection was secured by a larger participation in the default. This, however, did not permanently avail him. Duped by his associates, and restrained by severer provisions of the law, even these resources failed him; and he was compelled to resume his professional occupations with lessened means, but, as would appear, with no considerable diminution of power.

A character of this description, as may well be supposed, would often appear under very different circumstances. The money, rapidly and thoughtlessly acquired, was profusely expended; and, on the failure of resource, a proportionate diminution of external appearance would take place. In the seasons of his prosperity he would make his entrance to the Wells in his chariot and six handsome greys, preceeded by two out-riders with French horns. At other times he would think himself fortunate if he could escape the grasp of his creditors, by favor of his involuntary state of degradation.

This statement is submitted, not merely as a prominent feature in the history of Tunbridge Wells, but as a singular characteristic of the social habits of the times. Motives of private interest induced Mr. Nash to attempt a free and unrestrained intercourse between persons, united only by a desire of amusement; but separated by every common principle of society. He became the agent to effect this: and by a mixture of decision and obsequiousnes, with much knowledge of human nature, his exertions were attended with complete success. And, notwithstanding the many obliquities of his character, he was enabled to establish a system of society peculiarly his own; to maintain an influence amongst all ranks of people; and even to reign over them with the most arbitrary sway.

The local influence of his system continued to prevail at the Wells for a considerable time after Mr. Nash ceased to be the guide in its diversions. The support of the public place, and consequently the plan of living in public, was the law whereby every thing was regulated; a plan, materially favored by the few comforts which were afforded in any of the lodging houses: and, till within these very few years, there were none of any other description in the place.

Gradually, however, this system has undergone a change; and although in some measure to the disparagement of the public place, certainly much to the amelioration of the state of society. The true principles of social intercourse are in the present day much better understood. Tunbridge Wells has, at every period of its celebrity, been the jpesort of the most fashionable. In what may be termed the zenith of its prosperity, being unrivalled, the mixture was considerable; and the practice of every vice reigned with uninterrupted sway. At present it seems almost exclusively to retain its character for good and select company. Its small distance from the metropolis, and, when compared with modern public places, its limited extent, has encouraged a degree of circumspection and even suspicion on the part of its regular frequenters, which tends to maintain this distinction: whilst, from the same caution, the suspicious, degraded and abandoned, have little opportunity of gaining an introduction. Moreover, as the more dissipated habits of the metropolis have increased, the fashionable part of the company, who frequent the Wells, seek rather the pleasures of retirement and the comforts of moderate society, than of dissipation. The customs of the place have consequently taken a different course. The public amusements are continued, on their ancient footing; but are engaged in without compulsion, as occasional recreation: whilst the habits of private society are daily gaining ground, and social intercourse is promoted by the unencumbered resource of the public establishments.

As the social habits have varied, so the general character of the place has changed in other particulars. Little more than half a century ago the season was limited to the short period between Midsummer and Michaelmas. After that time the trades-people themselves migrated, the taverns were closed, the chapel service was discontinued; and the place remained a desert, till the following spring. As late as twenty years back, it was very unusual for a family to continue beyond the month of November. Now the case is very different. Many houses, formerly let as lodgings, are now permanently tenanted; the inhabitants have been induced to amend the condition of their houses; and winter residents have remunerated their speculation. The population of the place has accordingly become stationary : and, from a migrating colony, Tunbridge Wells has .become a place of considerable wealth, consequence, and respectability.

But this great change of character and habit is chiefly deducible from the circumstance of a permanent society having, of late years, gradually established itself in the place. Mount Ephraim, in particular, has imperceptibly become a cluster of country houses belonging to several respectable families; whilst others in different parts are either private property, or are regularly occupied by the same tenants. Every one of these yields attraction to others. The state of the times also has been accessary to the same end. The man of large landed property does not find it so convenient as formerly to occupy his mansion in the country. The public place offers him a favorable resource : at a moderate expence he can there partake of a select society: and the circumstances peculiar to Tunbridge Wells give it a priority of recommendation over many others.

This allusion to the altered circumstances of the place will induce us cursorily to review its several divisions, with the intent of pointing out the improvements which have of late taken place; and of noticing the individuals by whom they have been principally effected.

Mount Ephraim will here claim precedence, as comprising the greater number of objects worthy of notice. And here the first in point of beauty, comfort, and extent, is Bishop's Down Grove; the present residence of the widow of the late B. Gen. Yorke, of the Royal Artillery, who, in the year 1806, unfortunately perished on the coast of Brazil, when engaged in a military expedition destined against the Cape of Good Hope: an appointment, to which his distinguished services on its former capture, had principally recommended him.

This place was formerly the property and residence of Sir George Kelly, Knt. a physician of some eminence, who had settled here, and become possessed of considerable property in the neighbourhood. Dying hi the year 1772, his property vested in three sisters, his coheirs.. The only male descendant from whom is Thomas Christopher Gardner, Esq. late Major in the 95th Regiment of Foot; in which corps he for some years served with the highest credit, in Holland, Egypt, and South America. On the demise of Sir George Kelly, Bishop's Down Grove was purchased by Martin Yorke, Esq. who, during an occupancy of about twenty-five years, so improved the house, and beautified the grounds, as, in a great measure, to have constituted him the maker of the place. But in the recollection of those who knew him, who shared in his friendship, and partook of his hospitalities, he has left testimonies to his merits, far beyond what the works of art, or the improved beauties of nature can record. Martin Yorke, one of the eleven children oof the Rev. Martin Yorke, of Hemmington, in the county of Northampton, was educated at Woolwich for the military profession; and having attained the rank of lieutenant in the King's service, accepted the offer which, toward the close of the last reign, was made for the amelioration of the East India Company's service, of retaining his rank in the former, on accepting a commission in the latter. In this, having served for some years with credit, he obtained a majority; and in that rank distinguished himself under the command of Lord Clive; more especially in the memorable battle of Plassey. Returning to his native country, with a competent fortune, and although not advanced in years, with a shattered constitution; after a short residence elsewhere, he became the purchaser of this place; to which he was induced by a previous experience of the salubrity of the air, and the appropriate utility of the waters to a constitution, debilitated by exertion in hot climates. Thenceforth he devoted himself to the improvement of his place, and the duties of his station. Whilst in India he had married a daughter of Governor Holwell; by whom he had no family: but this privation did not suppress in him the parental affections; which, flowing in another direction, made him a parent to the fatherless amongst other branches of his relatives. Social in his habits, liberal in his principles, and fervent in his attachments, his house was the constant scene of friendly intercourse and cheerful hospitality; whilst his warm heart diffused throughout his neighbourhood the benefits of active exertion. He never courted popularity; but received it as the spontaneous tribute due to the most upright and honorable character. Having himself experienced the advantages of active exertion, he was a decided enemy to sloth; and constantly demonstrated a marked severity to the indolent trespasser on the benevolence of the affluent: but with an heart sensibly alive to real distress, and actuated by the fairest views of religion, his purse was liberally and unostentatiously open, in the form of loan to the embarrassed tradesman; or in that of gratuitous assistance to .the industrious pauper: whilst a sound judgment, matured by experience, yielded freely to those who sought it, the equally important aid of good advise, or candid, well-timed, and judicious remonstrance. He was, in short, the perfect exemplar of a country gentleman, formed on the reputable stock of an active, brave, and honorable soldier. His sense of religion dictated benevolence to his fellow creatures; and his heart readily corresponded with his duty. As Mr. Yorke was among the first of those who, by fixing permanently their residence at the Wells, tended to give a new bias to the course of society, more has been said on his character, than in a work of this kind might seem to be required. The few, who yet hold him in their remembrance, will riot be displeased at this tribute to his virtues. And what the memory of those, who knew and loved him still retains, may be surely recorded for the benefit of others.

Another place on Mount Ephraim, worthy of some remark, is that which was the property and residence of the late Sir Richard Heron, Bart. The original of this house (which has been added to and diminished till a very small part of the first structure remains) was built for the celebrated or rather infamous Judge Jeffries ; and, in consequence, long retained the name of the Chancellor's House: though it does not appear that it was ever occupied by him. It was, till purchased about thirty years since by Mr. Heron, only a lodging hous. It was again let during his absence in Ireland, as secretary to the Earl of Buckinghamshire. During his residence there he was created a baronet; and, on his return, meaning to make this place his future summer residence, he considerably enlarged it. A part of his improvements here was effected with materials brought from the magnificent seat of Sir Gregory Page, on Blackheath; the doors, floors, chimnies, &c. having originally formed a part of that ill-fated mansion. It is to be lamented, however, that so little should have been done for the real improvement of this place; which affords capabilities equal to any in the vicinity. The ground is beautifully varied ; and the views towards Holmesdale, and the Kentish and Surry Hills, are various . and extensive. On this spot was the original bowling green, (the ballroom and other accommodations being in the adjoining range of building, now occupied by the manufactory) and in later times, in the valley behind the house, were the fish ponds; a place of public resort, for variety of amusements ; which have been discontinued since the property has fallen into private hands. In the valley between the house and the fish-ponds there is a well of the finest and purest water.

Immediately adjoining to this is a place upon a smaller scale, called the Castle House, now the property of Mrs. Sheridan, widow of Charles Francis Sheridan, Esq. who died in it, June 25, 1806, very soon after he had made the purchase of it. It was for many years the residence of Mrs. Byng, the widow of George Byng, Esq. M. P. for Middlesex, and mother of the present member. It is now let as a lodging house.

This house was formerly the Castle Tavern; and from the beauty of its situation, and the extensive view it commands in front towards the Wells, and behind towards the Kentish and Surry range of hills, was much frequented by occasional visitors to the place. About thirty years since it was brought into its present condition by Mrs. Johnson, sister to the late Bishop of Worcester, who retired to this place soon after her brother's death; making it her constant summer residence.

During Mrs. Johnson's residence at the Wells, her house was occa-sionally the summer abode of an eminent character, whom the world had seen and admired in his days of activity; and whom it was the delight of the Tunbridge world to witness in the enjoyment of the placid evening of life, and the gratifying contemplation of his efficient labours for the benefit of society. The exalted character alluded to, is the first and great Lord Mansfield. He had been the early friend and patron of Bishop Johnson: and| as report has surmised, the admirer of his sister. Be that as it may, he was her frequent guest here: and during these occasional visits, her hospitable board was open to a select society, of which her venerable guest was the animating spirit. Lord Mansfield possessed the singular talent of making every one pleased with himself: hence his social popularity. But he possessed also a peculiarity eminently pleasing in old age. He delighted in the society of young persons; especially when distinguished by any superiority of talent. In this part of his character he. shone more especially during these excursions to the Wells. He was a constant frequenter of the public rooms ; and on these occasions would draw a circle of choice spirits around him; when the ease of his manners and the benignity of his countenance would encourage the interchange of brisk conversation, in which his own lively talents would display themselves in the most amiable and attractive forms. If there is one character, which super-eminently interests in the decline of life, it is that of the great statesman, who seems to retire from his busy station with a pure heart and an unruffled mind, to the placid contemplation of his useful labours, and the self-satisfaction of an approving conscience:
" Aptissima omnino
" sunt arma senectutis artes, exercitationesque virtutum: quae in ornni
" aetate cultae, cum multum, diuque vixeris, mirificos efferunt fructus;
" non solum quia nunquam deserunt, ne in extreme quidem tempore
"aetatis; verum etiam quia conscientia bene actae vitae, multorumque
" benefactorum recordatio jucundissima est."

Such was the picture which Lord Mansfield presented to those, whom he honored with his. society at Tunbridge Wells.

Proceeding from hence along Mount Ephraim we are induced to notice the elegant and hospitable residence of Mrs. Whittaker. It is small, but contains much that is pleasing in itself; and from some points in the grounds affords the most picturesque views of the distant country, of any from this hill. This house was built by Sir Edmund King, physician to Charles the Second; who made it his usual summer residence. It may possibly have been owing to this circumstance that the place was indebted for the visits of the Court, and so many of the nobility, at this period. Before it came into the occupation of the present proprietor it belonged to Mrs. Boone, the widow of Governor Boone; and after her demise continued for many years to be the residence of her daughter.

This lady may be classed among the prominent characters, which have of late years been resident at Tunbridge Wells: not, however, for her gaiety, though of that she was not destitute; but for a whimsical eccentricity, blended with much talent, vivacity, and benevolence, which constituted her a truly original character. Possessed of very superior talents, and of an enthusiastic and ardent mind, she sought and obtained distinction. Religion was the path in which she found it. It was a system of the wildest eccentricity; yet eminently characterized by every Christian virtue. But as she boasted of a courage beyond controul, so would she be biassed by no sect or party: yet would she have suffered martyrdom for any. She possessed the utmost deference and veneration for the Church of England; but her love of freedom carried her the length of promoting every discordant sect; and encouraging the fabricator of every novel creed. To these her house was open: with these she readily joined in their adverse expositions and prayers. But the same roof invariably yielded shelter to the indigent, and instruction to the ignorant: here too she would feed the hungry and clothe the naked. She was in herself the most singular instance of adverse and incongruous principles. Her life was an uniform course of humility and exertion; her conversation was lively, and always instructive; her appearance the criterion in some respects of vanity, in others of total disregard of form and fashion : rouged, as for a dissipated court - clad in sackcloth, as for the conventicle. Her drawing-room (if that term may be applied to her case, without profanation) exhibited on its walls the portraits and profiles of every known reformer; Luther and Calvin, Melancthon, and John Knox, figured in front; whilst Westley, Whitfield, and their motley followers, brought up the rear of a grotesque assemblage, which put religion and gravity at defiance : and to complete the scenery her own favorite monkey, and the living practitioners of her various religious creeds, were grouped in contact and contrast with the departed worthies, to the infinite merriment of her occasional profane visitors. How is the scene changed! In the same apartment the present worthy possessor of the mansion devotes her Wednesdays to the service of sociability and cards; and the reformers are banished to make room for the elegant productions of her daughter's pencil. It will not be required from the writer of these pages to resolve the weighty question, "which most benefits society?" Giving all due merit to the good intentions of the former, he will be satisfied to record the good humour and hospitality, which prevails with the present possessor; and wish her a continuance of health and days to further the cheerfulness and sociability, which she so well promotes, and so successfully diffuses through the place.

To this account of the private residences on Mount Ephraim may be added two recently erected mansions, the property of Lord Viscount Boyne, and Sir George Buggin, Knt. adjoining nearly to each other, and constituting a considerable ornament to this part of the place. In these their respective owners reside during a great part of the year; and contribute largely to the comfort and benefit of the place, by fulfilling the most useful and respectable character of vigilant and active justices of the peace.

This part of the place, extending from hence towards the London road, though generally termed Mount Ephraim, is strictly entitled to the designation of CULVERDEN Row: and the point, at which the road separates, in the direction towards the Wells, is named the CULVERDEN GATE, Here doubtless was one of the principal entrances into the adjoining royal chase which commenced at this spot. The name is very antient, and was probably derived from the resort of the CULVER pigeon to the DEN or grove of large trees, which formerly grew on this spot; of which, until these few years past, many venerable oaks remained.

At the extremity of the Culverden Row is a handsome house, standing jn a large court, at a convenient distance from the road, and commanding from behind beautiful and extensive views. This was formerly called the Culverden House; and was probably the residence of the owner of the adjacent property. It has of late years been more generally known as Lady Huntingdon's House : not that it was ever owned, or indeed inhabited, by any of that family; though it owes much of its celebrity to their name.

The lease of this house, of a small one adjoining, and of some acres of land in the vicinity, was many years since purchased by the late Dowager Countess of Huntingdon: when, on' an adjacent spot, she built a small neat chapel, for the sect of methodists, under her more immediate protection. The smaller house she devoted as an abode for the officiating minister; whilst the larger, together with the land, was let; and the rent allotted for his salary. The sect, thus patronized, soon extended itself: and this meeting-house attained somewhat of a metropolitical character. Seceders of eminence from the established church officiated therein ; and the congregation was swollen by fanatics of every denomination from the neighbouring villages. The golden age of their schism is, however, past. Their patron saint is no more; and the lease of these premises is expired. " No pay no play " was never better exemplified. The great orators have seceded from hence also; and it is now left to the congregation to procure such a minister as, their diminished funds will admit of.

This casual mention of the parent methodist establishment of the place, will justify, it is hoped, a somewhat more extended account of the present state of religious dissent at Tunbridge Wells. It is unhappily a branch of the fashion of the times: and will not therefore be altogether misplaced in these pages. It will be recollected that, in the infant state of the place, the dissenters constituted a majority of the population. This was apparently much the case throughout this part of the county of Kent. When the chapel for the service of the established church was built, accommodation for the visitors rather than for the inhabitants seems to have been the chief object in view. There were at that time meeting-houses for the anabaptists, the presbyterians, and the independants. Whiston, in his Memoires, (A. D. 1748) testifies to the respectability of the anabaptist congregation, under their minister Mr. Copper. This was continued, in a dwindling condition, till it actually expired, with their late venerable and truly Christian pastor Mr, Joseph Haines. Those, who remember the Rev. Mr. Johnson, will attest to the respectability of the presbyterian congregation under his ministry. The independants have ceased about twenty years; and their meeting-house is converted into the lodging, now called SYDENHAM HOUSE. These congregations were all existing, and even flourishing, at the time when Lady Huntingdon's establishment took place; and, with the chapel of the church of England, constituted the sum of the religious departments of the place. The result of a few years is curious. Like Pharaoh's lean kine, the lank schismatics, thus nobly protected, have actually devoured each of the other dissenting establishments.

The independants are no more; not a vestige of them remaining; the deserted meeting-house of the baptists merely proclaims the spot, where formerly their congregations assembled; whilst that of the presbyterians, is unblushingly given up, by a trust formerly deemed respectable, to another separation of the methodists. These, with another recently established on Mount Sion, having devoured their adversaries, and ranged their vanquished foes under their several banners, are now bitterly quarrelling among themselves: thus proving, for the admonition of the unwary, that however loud may be their boasts of FAITH, it is not of that description, which is productive of CHARITY. Amidst this singular oscillation of principles, in a cause, which above every other should be characterized by stability, it will be pleasing and not uninstructive to recur to the case of the established church. During this period of religious inconstancy very few indeed have been the seceders from its communion; whilst the more respectable of the old dissenters, who, having lost their associates, have yet retained a sober sense of religion, have laid aside their dissent, and silently subsided into this congregation. The harmony of its proceedings yields the best encouragement to take shelter under its protecting wing; whilst its meekness and charity towards those, who differ on points of faith, read a lesson to schismatics, which it were well for their boasting could they be induced to imitate. The result has been union, peace, and increased congregations. Its resources indeed are but uncertain and of an eleemosynary nature : yet have they shewn no tendency to failure. May its success be progressive, and may it establish its claim to the motto once allotted to its parent, esto perpetua.

Mount Pleasant which next attracts our notice, contained originally but,one house. About thirty years since, an indifferent lodging house was enlarged, and the adjacent grounds extended and embellished, by Elizabeth, the widow of Sir John Peachey, Bart, the elder brother of the first Lord Selsea. She made it one of the most desirable residences, at Tunbridge Wells; and occupied it, in the exercise of an extensive benevolence and liberal hospitality, till her death. It has since become the property, and is the occasional residence of Sir John Fagg, Bart, of Mystole House, near Canterbury. Still the great Mount Pleasant House retains its exclusive claim to that appropriate designation. It is now only a lodging house ; let as one, or divisible into two, as the circumstances of the tenants may require. Many persons of distinction have wished to become the purchasers of it; captivated by the beauty of the situation, and the capability of improvement in the adjacent grounds; but having descended to the present proprietor as heir at law, on the last possessor having informally bequeathed it to a roman catholic establishment, some doubts, as to the validity of the title have been raised, which have hitherto proved obstacles to the transfer of the property.

This place has heretofore been the occasional residence of many distinguished persons. It was formerly a seat of the Earl of Egmont. For twenty successive seasons it was the constant abode, for the precisely measured period of ten weeks, to Thomas, the fourth Duke of Leeds: whicfe he continued till his death in 1789 [The subjoined early testimony to the character of this truly respectable nobleman, occurs in a letter from Lord Oxford to Dr. Swift, bearing the date of June 19, 1735. " The Duke of Leeds is returned from his travels a fine gentleman ; and has imported none of the fopperies and fooleries of the countries he has passed through."]

This noble personage formed so conspicuous a feature in the costume of Tunbridge Wells, that it will be allowable to pause a little on his name and character. The antient system of the place prevailed during his abode in it: and he was invariably seen on the parade at the usual hours of assembling there. He may be said to have precisely exemplified Mr. Burke's happy and elegant difinition of a nobility, " the Corinthian capital of polished society" Dignified in his manners, polite in his demeanour, affable withall, and actively benevolent; he so apportioned his attentions, and so encouragingly displayed his goodwill to all, that he became the most popular character in the place; and his implied wish on any subject was equivalent to a law. Although he divested himself of the aristocratic air in his conversation and countenance, never did he so in his equipage and exterior. His star invariably decorated his person, even on his great coat; and his full equipage regularly conveyed him to the Wells, and for his airing. After the morning bustle of the day, his habits were retired. He had usually his small party at dinner; and at the appointed hour, or rather minute, the coach and six was at the door for the evening excursion towards a spot on the London road, which his Grace denominated Turnham Green, from an open space, which admitted of the turning of his cumbrous equipage.

On one single day in the year he would make his evening appearance in the Rooms: this was on the birth-day of the Prince of Wales. On this occasion it had been his custom to give a public tea-drinking and ball to the company; and, if the state of the weather permitted, the former part of the entertainment took place on the Parade; at that time denominated the Pantiles. The tables were spread, according to the numbers to be accommodated, down the walks; and it may be noticed, as a singular contrast to the unmannerly intrusion of the present times, that, although the novelty of such a scene might be supposed to yield attractions, and almost to justify some deviations from a rigid propriety, there never was any advance on the part of the lower classes to disturb the comfort of the meeting. But not only the days of chivalry, but even those of decency and good order are gone by.

After the death of the Duke of Leeds, for one season, the Duke of Chandos made this house his residence; and died there, honored and lamented by all who knew him. For many years it was, in the early part of the season, the residence of the venerable Dr. Moss, Bishop of Bath and Wells; who for more than half a century had been a regular frequenter of the Wells : and died not many years since, in the full enjoyment of his faculties, at the great age of ninety-two.

In the year 1795, her Royal Highness the Princess Sophia, having been recommended to drink the Tunbridge waters, resided for that purpose, about six weeks, in Great Mount Pleasant. On her arrival, she was in a most debilitated state of health: during her residence, she rapidly amended, and quitted the place completely restored. Two years after the same house was destined to receive royal guests, of a different description, and under different circumstances: - the Prince and Princess, with the hereditary Princess of Orange. The Duchess of York accompanied them; and the excursion was understood to have been chiefly undertaken on her Royal Highnesses account. This visit took place in the early stage of those revolutionary scenes, which have since proved so fatal and humiliating to crowned heads; but so frequent, as almost to cease exciting wonder. The near alliance of the parties to our own reigning family, and their steady adherence to the interests of this country, occasioned these royal exiles to participate largely in the compassion of Britons: and during their residence among them, the inhabitants of the Wells readily united with their fellow citizens in yielding them the tribute of their utmost benevolence.

The remaining parts of the place contain few residences of individual, proprietors, worthy of notice. The three Grove Houses, so called from their vicinity to Mount Sion Grove, have frequently been occupied by the same families for several successive seasons. Two of them have recently passed into private hands, and have undergone very great improvements. The largest having been purchased by William Pigou, Esq. and that nearest to Mount Pleasant being occupied by the Dowager Lady Dering, on a long lease. The former of these was, for several of the last years of his life, the constant summer residence of Dr. Moore, the late Archbishop of Canterbury. This venerable prelate afforded a singular instance of well-merited professional success; and he bore his high dignities with a singular moderation. He lived in times formidably threatening to the hierarchy; and it is no mean token pf his administration that he left the interests of the church unimpaired. If he did not possess or display talents and learning equal to some of his predecessors, his temper, moderation, and vigilance, may be pronounced to have effected purposes as meritorious as higher qualifications would have ensured. This place witnessed the last scenes of his active life; and will long bear testimony to the amiability of his private character, and to the exemplary manners, whereby he recommended the duties, which it was an object of his station to enforce.

The other Grove House, now occupied by Lady Dering, was in years somewhat more remote, the residence of the late Earl of Guildford, better known to the world under the title of Lord North. The conduct and character of this nobleman, during his residence at the Wells, was more adapted to its general interests ; and consequently calculated for a more extended notice in this work. He may indeed be classed among the number of those friends to the place, who contributed to the establishment of that social system, which has recently grown into common usage.

There was somewhat more in the case of Lord North, than what is generally applicable to the retired public character. Disappointment in the main objects of life, is apt to create chagrin; and if those objects have been of a public nature, the mortification is more sensibly felt; being more level to common observation. Hence it is that a gloom and moroseness is generally expected to mark the latter days of an unfortunate statesman : and if his other mortifications are aggravated by the experience of any private or personal calamity, the utmost climax of misery will be anticipated. That Lord North was an unfortunate minister, public events most incontrovertibly testify; it may, however, be doubted, whether his want of success did not result more from a perverse and unprincipled opposition, than from his own incapacity. He certainly appeared to rise in the public estimation after his secession from office. This was a tribute paid to his acknowledged purity of conduct, and to his many private virtues. And those, who saw him in the exercise of his domestic duties, those, who participated in the exquisite felicities of his social hours, when one of the greatest calamities of life lay heavily on him, will readily bear testimony to the total absence of gloom or moroseness from his mind, and the gangrene of resentment from his heart.

Lord North, in addition to those natural and improved talents which had in early life placed him in a conspicuous station, possessed a variety of attainments, eminently calculated for private society. He had a mind finely stored with general information, polite literature, and colloquial anecdote; at the same time, richly ornamented with classic erudition. His memory was retentive, his imagination lively, and his disposition easy and communicative. He possessed, moreover, a facetious manner of detailing his story, or communicating his information, that invariably gave an extraordinary zest to the subject imparted. It was impossible not to attach the greatest interest to the lively narratives of the blind communicator: and when these were heightened by the pleasing attentions of a singularly attached family, and such placidity was impressed on the grateful heart of the patient sufferer, as would admit of his own facetious remarks on his infirmity - his case was more than interesting - it was edifying: he promulged an useful lesson; and yielded a persuasive proof, how readily and gracefully it might be practised.

A few years after Lord North's residence at the Wells had terminated, his great and coarse political antagonist, Colonel Barre, under a similar instance of privation of sight, took up his station in the place for his summer residence. Colonel Barré, under his misfortune, had lost much of that asperity of character, which had distinguished him in earlier life; and doubtless had these political combatants met under the impression of a common calamity, they would have forgot their animosities, and in reality have verified Lord North's happy and facetious impromptu - that, " although no political antagonist had been more bitter against him than " had Colonel Barre, yet were there no two people in the world, who " would then be more happy to see each other" It is no inconsiderable alleviation to this calamity that it so generally excites notice, and awakens the desire of yielding consolation in the breasts of the youthful, the accomplished, and well - informed. The two eminent characters above noticed, afforded an ample and most impressive exemplification of this amiable and honorable trait in human nature. They passed much of their time in public; and whether on the Parade, or in the Rooms, whatever the place contained, persons dignified by rank, or distinguished by youth, beauty, talent, or accomplishment, were seen proffering their guidance to the sightless step; or combining, by pleasantry and good-humour, to alleviate the privation of a sense. Nor shall the English, altogether, engross this testimony to the most amiable propensity of the female heart. It will be recollected by the few survivors, who can retrace the scene, that Tunbridge Wells was about this time honored with a transient visit from the amiable but unfortunate Princess De Lamballe. She visited the Rooms: and due respect was paid to the illustrious stranger. She was literally a stranger, having no acquaintance there beyond those of her own suite. But she selected the blind ex-minister as an object of her attention; and by soothing expressions, and an exquisitely adapted compliment, cheered his feelings; and, perchance, gratified the last dormant passion in the human heart, his vanity.

In the vicinity of the Grove Houses, but higher on Mount Sion, Lieut. Gen. Murray has, for many successive years (except when diverted elsewhere in the service of his country) taken up his abode. Having long experienced the advantages of the situation, he has recently so improved it as to have actually renovated his dwelling; and at the same time, from the taste displayed in the execution, made it a principal ornament to this part of the place.

Mr. Cumberland's long residence at Tunbridge Wells has already been incidentally mentioned. We are now approaching the spot, which for above twenty years he inhabited. More would have bean submitted on the subject of his residence and its effects, had not the description been already so faithfully given to the world from his own lively and instructive pen. This short account (had it been somewhat earlier submitted to the public) would have terminated with the lamentation that he had taken a farewell of scenes long cherished by his partiality, and benefited by his exertions ; but during the course of the last year, he has (at the instance of the Volunteers, whom he commands,) returned, not precisely to his old station, but to one in its immediate vicinity on Mount Sion. Little depressed by the advanced hand of Time, he has resumed his various local occupations with his wonted ardor: and faithful to that public, which by his literary exertions he has so long benefited and amused, he has recently announced himself, from hence, the champion of fair and liberal criticism, with a candour and ingenuity, equally honorable to his head and heart, The attempt is worthy of his established character; and his perseverance would seem to indicate the coincidence of his ideas with those exquisite sentiments of the younger Pliny,
" Et gaudium mihi
" et solatium in literis: nihilque tarn laetum, quod his laetius: nihil tarn
" triste, quod non per has sit minus triste. - Porro ut ex studis gaudium,
" sic studia hilaritate proveniant."

The object of the above detailed statement has been to trace to its source a gradual alteration in the system of society at Tunbridge Wells ; and, from existing circumstances to unfold that, which now prevails; it is hoped that something has been effected, which may bring the reader acquainted with the past and present circumstances of the place. Of the present state of the public amusements a few words may suffice. The Rooms are constantly open, on the usual terms of subscription, for balls and cards: and a small neat theatre has lately been erected. These afford a resource to those, who choose to avail themselves of them. The terms of meeting are easy, and the forms regular. Occasionally a tea -drinking or concert vary the scene. But the prevailing spirit suggests ease as the criterion of enjoyment: and although the society of all be acceptable, yet none are compelled to meet in public, contrary to their inclination.

Little notice lias hitherto been taken of the spring, and its appendages. The chalybeate water itself will form the subject of a separate article. The mere relater of facts will confine his remarks to the notorious efficacy of these waters; the daily recurring circumstance of renovated health, restored strength, and improved beauty, affords, even to the visitant in pursuit of pleasure, the purest and most gratifying sensations.

The spring remained in its original condition, surrounded merely by a, rude wooden paling, until the year 1664, when it was enclosed by a triangular stone wall, at the" expence of the Lord Muskerry: and in this state it continued until within these few years. About the year 1789 the old stone bason was found to be in. a very decayed state, front the corroding of the mineral, at the aperture through which the water arose. On this occasion, the lady of the manor deter mined to replace it, by a handsome marble bason: and it having been discovered, on removing the old bason, that much filth had accumulated beneath, from the exposure of the water, she was advised to add a fixed cover, to prevent such an inconvenience for the future. This was accordingly effected : and the water was drawn from the spout, at which it issued from the bason. The work was handsomely executed; and the projector hoped to participate in the credit she so justly merited. On. the arrival however of some old frequenters of the place, in the ensuing season, a storm arose, which had been as little anticipated, as it was found difficult to calm. Not experiencing the same benefit, they had heretofore received, and never heeding that themselves had advanced in years, and that a time will come, when the most potent spells can no longer renovate, they imputed the whole and sole cause of their failure to the new marble cover. It had polluted or neutralized the water. Neither reason nor raillery could convince them to the contrary. Chemical experiments were made under the three different circumstances of the water, when extracted by dipping in the uncovered state, when caught from the spout in a state of exposure, and again, when thus taken in a covered state. No perceptible difference could be ascertained. Prejudice, nevertheless, as usual, carried the day: the cover was laid aside; and the triumphant party were indulged with the essence of the dipper's fingers, and the filtration from the accumulated filth beneath the bason.

In this state did the well remain till within these very few years. Baths had frequently been demanded at Tunbridge Wells. There was indeed an excellent cold bath near Rust-Hall Common; which had formerly been an appendage on a place of public entertainment: but this was at too great a distance for invalids; difficult of access; and moreover, in a very dilapidated and uncomfortable condition. Warm baths there were none. It was suggested that some benefit might be derived from baths composed of the mineral water, and a desire manifested itself on the part of many of the inhabitants, to embark in an undertaking to this effect. Mrs. Shorey, however, as lady of the manor, put in her exclusive claim to the advantages of the undertaking; and with a liberality and zeal for the public good, which, it is apprehended, can scarcely in point of profit have answered to herself, erected about six years since the present handsome edifice, on the scite of the antient enclosure. Cold and warm, vapour; and shower baths are herein contained; all excellent in their kind and well .appointed. The Well still retains its antient situation, though better protected, in front of the building: but in a handsome room, facing the parade, the same water is supplied from a pump, for those who prefer that method of taking it. Over this pump-room and the baths, are various comfortable apartments; intended for the accommodation of invalids, with small establishments, who might wish to make constant use of the baths. They have not, however, yet been fitted up for the purpose.

The property of the spring is absolutely in the public; so defined and ascertained by Act of Parliament: whereby also provisions are made for its security. The emolument derived from the water is limited to the dippers, who serve it to individuals; these are usually selected from the wives or relatives of the inferior tenants on the manor; and are nominated to their situation by the lord.

Notwithstanding the spring, which is now used, has for so long a time enjoyed an exclusive preference, it is said not to have been that, which originally engaged the notice of the public. That is in an unfrequented spot, behind the Sussex Tavern, called the Folly. It yields a water apparently of equal power; but, from issuing more superficially from the earth, is supposed to be more liable to be affected by changes in the atmosphere, and by. heavy rains. Neither is it equally accessible as that in common use; although, from its situation, it would present to many persons the recommendation of retirement and agreeable country scenery. About the middle of the last century, an attempt was made by Mr.Todd, then the proprietor of the Sussex Tavern, to bring this spot into notice ; and even to make it the fashionable rendezvous for the company. At a considerable expence the ground was cleared, walks were laid out, new plantations formed, and the muddy water put into new courses, so as to occasion what he meant to call cascades: but either the place was found to be inconvenient, or prejudices in favor of old haunts prevailed; for the scheme did not succeed: probably to the injury of the projector; inasmuch as it quickly obtained the name, which it still retains, of TODD'S FOLLY. It is now a complete wilderness; though the well is occasionally made use of.

It was observed in the early part of this statement, that the spring, although usually denominated from the neighbouring town of Tunbridge, was, in fact, situated in the parish of Speldhurst; as were likewise the walks, and the more populous parts of the place. Before we proceed to the notice of the several places represented in the ensuing plates, may not be uninteresting to add a few notices on this and some adjacent spots, which will not otherwise engage our particular attention.

The parish of Speldhurst, like many others in this neighbourhood, was formerly respectably inhabited. The village is, and probably ever was, amongst the meanest and most obscure. Immediately adjoining the church however are still to be traced the remains of a mansion of considerable extent; formerly well inhabited, but; now converted into a farm-house.

The church of Speldhurst is singularly placed at the utmost extremity of this very extensive parish, within two fields of Penshurst. Such extraordinary and inconvenient situations of churches, are usually to be accounted for from a vicinity to the residence of the founder. The relative situation of this church and house, would seem to render it probable that the former owes its existence to some antient occupier of the latter. The family of most note among the antient inhabitants of Speldhurst, was of the name of Waller. Their residence was in the adjoining hamlet of Groombridge; near to the road from the Wells, towards East Grinstead. The seite of their mansion is still noticeable ; though occupied by a modern building : but the moat is still retained, and marks what was its character in antient times. This place, having been previously possessed by the families of Cobham and Clinton, was purchased in the reign of Henry the Fifth, by Sir Charles Waller. In his military capacity he attended that monarch in his Avars on the continent, and having much distinguished himself in the battle of Agincourt, he had, as a reward for his bravery, the custody granted him of the Duke of Orleans, who had been made prisoner by him on that memorable day. He was detained a prisoner in this mansion of Groombridge for twenty-five years: and tradition states, that in token of the handsome treatment he experienced, besides the large ransom, which he eventually paid, he rebuilt this mansion; and so far repaired and beautified the parochial church, as to have been in some measure considered as its founder.

This church, which was a simple gothic structure, with a most elegant timber spire, a singular ornament to the neighbouring country, (having many years previously been deprived of one of its aisles,) was on the 21st of October, 1791? burnt down by lightning. Its place is occupied by a modern structure ; in which a poverty of design and meanness of execution are the chief characters, which distinguish it from its antient predecessor. Over the church porch remains a memorial of the munificence of the Duke of Orleans - his coat of arms. The antiquary will lament that the original stone was not preserved. He will not be pacified probably when he is told that there is no ground for his lamentation. The original still retains its place: though, with a singularly active barbarity, the rust of antiquity has been carefully removed from it, that it might not disgrace the modern building.

In the hamlet of Groombridge, adjoining the mansion, and an appendage to the estate, is a chapel, in which the service of the Church of England is regularly performed ; apparently to the danger of the minister and his congregation : it being in a wretched state of dilapidation. This chapel, which was built in the year 1625, is whimsically dedicated by John Packer, Esq. the owner of this estate, in an inscription over the porch, to the happy return of Charles Prince of Wales, from his eccentric amorous expedition to Spain : a singular mode of perpetuating the remembrance of a wild exploit; which, however, if it is to depend on this memorial, will speedily pass into oblivion.

In a field in this parish, adjoining the turnpike road, several French gold coins have been lately turned up by the plough. They are of the date of the thirteenth century; and of the value, by weight, of about thirteen shillings. It is difficult to account for their being found in such a spot. They are, however, possibly connected with the long residence of the Duke of Orleans in this parish ; the spot whereon they have been found, being in the direct line between the place of his residence and the parish church.

The village of Frant stands in a south-east direction from the Wells. It commands a rich and extensive view over the wild scenery of Eridge Park, and the adjacent country. From the church steeple, it is said, that the cliffs in the neighbourhood of Dover may be discerned ; but it does not appear that this point is satisfactorily ascertained. Dungeness, however, and Beachy-Head are clearly discovered from hence: for betwixt the former of these places and the church tower of Frant, was one of the bases in the trigonometrical survey of this part of the kingdom, carried on some years since, under the inspection of Lieut. Gen. Roy. This spot being celebrated for a pure air, and its commanding situation, has afforded inducement to many persons to establish their summer residence in its vicinity : and within these few years a splendid mansion has been erected on an elevated spot, within extensive grounds, by Charles Pigou, Esq. The view from it is varied and commanding in every direction; and the house itself an object of interest to all the surrounding country.

On the opposite side of the road leading to Bayham Abbey, on an eminence commanding extensive views towards the Wells and the Kentish hills, is a cottage lately improved and decorated in a style of suitable simplicity, by Sir John Macpherson, Bart. It has, of late years, been much deserted by its owner: and is consequently not in the condition, which it formerly presented to the eye. It possesses, however, intrinsic beauties, which this partial neglect cannot obliterate; and when constituted the scene of entertainment, as was frequently the case to numerous visitors from the Wells, in the public breakfasts here given by the hospitable proprietor, no spot could be better calculated for jocund merriment; or scene more gay, than this cottage and its appendages.

The roads, which pass over Frant Green, soon after quitting it, branch off in different directions towards various places on the Sussex coast; and afford some of the pleasantest rides to the frequenters of the Wells. For the richness of the scenery they need not yield to any in the southern parts of the kingdom: and they have the additional advantage of generally conducting to some objects of curiosity at the termination of the excursion. In an eastern direction, following the course of the roads towards the coast, is the village of Pembury. The Rye and Hastings road passes over what is called Pembury Green; the church and village being seen at some distance on the left. Leaving this Green on the left, and pursuing the road nearly a mile, the eye is gratified with some pleasing scenery, which once formed the park to a considerable mansion, one half only of which is now remaining. In its barbarously mutilated state it was not thought worthy of representation in a plate; yet it may yield a pleasing object in the course of a ride. It is called BAY-HALL : the present ruin is probably not a part of the original mansion, which, in remoter times, occupied this spot; inasmuch as the vestiges of moats and terraces seem to indicate themselves appendages to a much larger edifice, than this would appear ever to have been; though, in its perfect state, it formed no inconsiderable mansion. Bay-Hall was formerly part of the immense property of the farnily of Colepepper; which extended itself over great part of this county; more especially on the western side of it. They were residents here in very antient times: one of them, John Colepepper, having kept his shrievalty here in the reign of Edward the Third. The estate was alienated from this family in the reign of Henry the Sixth, to Humphry Stafford, Duke of Buckingham; and after various other transfers, which it is unnecessary here; to specify, it was purchased about the middle of the seventeenth century by the family of Amherst: Sergeant Amherst dying possessed of this estate in the year 1632. In this family, and its representative of the name of Browne, it has remained till within these very few years; when it was sold, first to Thomas Streatfield, Esq. and since to Earl Camden, The house, of which the moiety is still to be seen, was a handsome edifice, built of the stone of the country, and in a good style. It was begun by Richard Amherst, Esq. during the most violent times of the civil wars. He is said to have been a favorer of the Royal interest; but to have carried himself with so much prudence and address, as to have been enabled, whilst under the necessity of concealing himself, to proceed for some years with this building; which he completed about the year 1664. It is said, that he would give his directions to his workmen and agents from the place of his retirement; and occasionally, as he had intimations of probable safety, that he would avail himself of moon-light nights to take a survey of the progress of his building: and was fortunate enough to accomplish what he so ably planned, and courageously executed.

It has already been noticed that the country about Tunbridge Wells presents, for the most part, a wild forest aspect. This description of it will not prove a recommendation to the agriculturist or the admirer of improved nature. In truth the soil is little calculated to remunerate the husbandman, except with much labour and expence on his part; and hitherto little has been done in that line of patriotic exertion. This apparent apathy is to be assigned to various causes: principally to the very short duration of the leases, heretofore granted by the proprietors of the soil; which did not hold out to a wealthy speculator the prospect of an adequate return of his capital. Another reason, which still in some shape prevails, is to be deduced from the vast extent of smuggling in this neighbourhood. Not many years since every farmer in the vicinity was more or less a participator in illicit trade: and the necessary consequence ensued ; that, intent on the fraudulent gains of a clandestine occupation, he neglected his lawful and ostensible business. But a singular prejudice, which prevailed, till within these few years, was an effectual means of checking those agricultural improvements, which might have been expected, and which are now rapidly taking place. So prevalent was the idea that all the water in the place was injurious to horses, that scarcely any of the visitors could be prevailed on to retain their cattle at the Wells. The inconvenience was remedied by hackney coaches, which plied near the Walks during the day; and even these, it is said, retired, (their proprietor being actuated by the same prejudice,) to Southborough for the night. As this prejudice long prevailed, the barren soil of the neighbourhood was deprived of the advantages of manure, which the great influx of visitors would otherwise have supplied. But this has now in a great measure subsided; and better prospects begin to shew themselves. But although the soil is sufficiently meagre, it covers treasures of various kinds ; some of which are competent to its amelioration. Marl of the very best kind abounds; and the little improvement of the surface, which has taken place, has been principally effected by this useful manure : and as the terms of the leases are now extending, there is little doubt but a few years will produce a very signal advance toward agricultural perfection. A good iron stone abounds throughout the country: and may be considered as the parent of the chalybeate, which has principally called the place into public notice. Until within these few years (when the smelting business has been carried on upon a large scale in cheaper countries, and where abundance of fuel, and the vicinity of navigations favor the undertaking) much business of this kind was done in the adjacent villages: almost every stream in the vicinity furnishing its aid to some mill and furnace. This resource to wealth and industry has now altogether ceased ; not a single furnace being at this time in existence.

The same may be observed also of the clothing business ; which in the country between the Wells and the Weald was formerly so considerable, that the cloth manufactured here was designated by the name of the Kentish grey; and still continues to distinguish the facings of the county militia. The deserted workshops in many places remain; but scarcely a loom is at this time employed.

But the prevailing ingredient in the soil, and that which forms the characteristic feature of the country, is a sand stone of considerable hardness. Where this lies near the surface, as the light soil is washed away, various considerable prominences are presented to the eye; which tend to vary the scene; and when mixed with the verdure of intervening trees and shrubs, and enlivened with moving objects, present scenes highly fascinating to the admirers of the wild beauties of nature. In some places, where the inequality of the ground has favored more extensive failures of the adjacent.soil, these protuberances are of considerable magnitude; and the external surface of the stone having, from exposure, acquired hardness and a darker hue, they assume the majestic character of rocks. Within a short distance from the Wells there are three principal aggregations of them; which are objects of notice and curiosity. The nearest are distinguished by the appellation of the High Rocks: the Others, being named from the proprietors of the adjacent lands, are called Harrison's and Penn's Rocks : the former about five miles from the Wells; the latter about a mile further in the same direction.

At a considerable depth below the surface, the sand becomes white and of a delicate fineness; and is in such request for household purposes that it forms a tolerably profitable pursuit with poor persons to collect it for sale. The excavations for this purpose in one, which is here represented, are so considerable, as to give them the character of caverns; and cottages having been erected among the rocks above, hot only is the general effect interesting, but between the increased pressure from above and the encroachments on the substratum, the idea of danger to the parties occupying either station, is so heigthened, as to make it a scene to be viewed with no inconsiderable apprehension.

The rock, whereof representation is annexed, forms part of a collection in a valley adjoining Rust-Hall Common; which are not indeed so large as those already noticed, but no less remarkable for the singular shapes which many of them present. Here, with the aid of a little imagination, many counterparts of art or nature have been traced: and the walk through the valley is amongst the most agreeable in the immediate vicinity.

All these bear evident marks of the origin, which has been assigned them. It would indeed require no great licence of imagination to induce the conjecture, that in all these instances they had formerly been the boundaries of some vast channel of waters. Their curved and serpentine directions, the edging of the valley, the fall of the ground, and the present existence of a small rivulet tracing its course through the intervening space, all seem to favor this idea. Yet is there no coincidence in the present circumstances of the country, which would establish the truth of such a surmise. But a minute inspection of the rocks themselves, an attention to the general regularity of their courses, and a partial irregularity of their component parts, together with the adverse and opposing directions of their strata, would seem to connect them with some great convulsion of nature, whereof we have only conjectural traces : and perhaps there may be more than fancy in the idea, that they are indebted for their origin to the very remote existence of overwhelming torrents and convulsions, of which so many parts of every known country beat such evident testimony, to the perplexity of the naturalist, and the confusion of the historian.

These rocks afford a principal source of amusement to the frequenters: of Tunbridge Wells. The walk to the High Rocks is exceeded in point of beauty by nothing in the country: whilst the greater distance of the others, affords a pleasing variety to the riders; Adjoining nearly to the High Rocks, but nearer to Rust-Hall, is an excellent cold bath. It is situated in a beautiful romantic dell; and for the coldness, and tranpiiarency of the water, may be pronounced as excellent as apy in the kingdom: the accommodation for the bathers is not however what it ought to be. When Rust-Hall was the principal rendezvous, of the company, this was a place of much public resort; but on the failure of that it has declined in its celebrity. At a still later period accommodations for entertainment were provided at the High Rocks; which induced many pleasant meetings under a rustic shed, at one termination of them; where romantic scenery, combining with the wish to please and to be pleased, tended to create an agreeable relief to that taedium, which will frequently encroach on a place of fashionable resort. Of late years these seem to have yielded to the superior attractions of a spot in the neighbourhood of Harrison's Rocks: where, by the side of a lake of considerable extent, the worthy and benevolent proprietor has erected some rooms, with which he accommodates the public on these occasional visits.

The naturalist will, amongst these rocks, find a source of much botanical amusement. Heaths of great variety and beauty; forest shrubs and rock plants abound. And that, which is peculiarly appropriate, being denominated, from the spot, the Trichomanes Tunbridgiensis, is here found in abundance and perfection.

THE WATERS.

It has been remarked, that some of the greatest and most useful discoveries have not been the result of philosophical investigation, but that ignorant people have, as it were, stumbled upon them when they had eluded the search of the philosopher. This observation applies strongly to the healing art; for it has been to accident as much as to design that we have been indebted for a knowledge of several of our most powerful medicines, and particularly of that large class of natural remedies -mineral waters; in many of which chance has discovered virtues which the physician never dreamt of. The circumstance which brought to light the hidden quality of the Tunbridge waters has been already related, it remains now to investigate their chemical properties; and here it is to be lamented that a neighbouring gentleman, whose talents have placed him deservedly high in the list of chemists, should have been diverted from his intended labours, as, through his kindness, the author had hoped to have enriched this work with a complete and satisfactory analysis of these waters; and thus to have been enabled to have given that from original information, which he must now derive from the more doubtful source of the writings of those, who, from their distance from the Wells, have been incapable of duly instituting such experiments as the nature of the subject required. It cannot be expected that this part of the work should be rendered deserving the attention of the medical reader, but such a concise analysis of the water, and such a narrative of their properties and effects, shall be given, as may enable the distant invalid, in some degree, to conjecture how far he may be likely to derive benefit from them; and such directions as may prevent the resident from bringing on himself inconvenience from the incautious use of them. Those waters whose constituent particles are composed of saline, earthy, or metalline substances, in such quantities as to become obvious to the sense of taste, have been termed mineral; and of the great variety of these waters, those which are called chalybeate (especially such as have the iron suspended by carbonic acid) are by far the most numerous. The whole neighbourhood of Tunbridge Wells abounds with springs of this description, and has been for a long time celebrated as affording the purest instances of the simple carbonated chalybeate. Two of these are chiefly used, which, yielding each about a gallon in a minute, afford an abundant supply to the numerous invalids who yearly resort hither.

The source of these springs is at a considerable depth, for the water, though covered with a sandy soil, is never affected by rain; and preserves very constantly the temperature of 50 at all seasons, and experiences little if any change from the heat of the external atmosphere. Their mode of impregnation it is difficult to explain; the most satisfactory theory is that contained in an analysis published in 1792.
" It is probable (says the author of that work) that the spring from which these
" waters originate, is at a considerable depth within the bowels of the
" earth, and that the iron which they contain is taken up in their passage
" to the surface. We suppose them, in the first instance, to be a common
" water, containing selenite, muriated magnesia, and common salt,
" together with a quantity of aerial acid, as yet in an uncombined state.
" After this, we suppose them, to pass through a stratum of iron-stone,
" with which this country abounds: in this stage, and not before, they
" become chalybeate; and from this time, till they reach the surface,
" the only substance they meet with is sand, which being itself strongly
" impregnated with iron, is rather calculated to improve than impair them."

The sensible properties of this water, as it is taken from the spring, are the following: it is quite colourless, bright and clear; it is pleasantly steely to the taste, has no perceptible smell, though sometimes, in certain states of the atmosphere, ferruginous exhalations are distinguishable; it does not sparkle in the glass, but slowly separates a few bubbles, which adhere to the sides of the vessel in somewhat larger quantity than common spring water; after it has stood until it is warmed to nearly the heat of the atmosphere, these airy globules separate more rapidly, and in a few hours the sides of the vessel become covered with them; the liquid grows turbid; a light copper coloured scum incrusts the surface; an ochreous sediment settles at the bottom, and the water loses entirely its chalybeate properties, The same effects take place more rapidly when the water is heated, shewing that the iron is suspended by the carbonic acid alone. The specific gravity of the fresh water is 1,0014.

With the usual re-agents, the following appearances are observed:
Tincture of litmus is almost instantly changed to a light red or garnet colour.
Lime water is rendered immediately turbid, though in a slight degree.
Vitriolic acid produces no sensible disengagement of bubbles.
Syrup of violets, on standing some hours, becomes of a lively green.
Infusion of galls produces a fine purple in a few seconds;
and prus-siated lime gives a fine blue, both of which colours remain for about twenty-four hours.
Nitrated silver gives an immediate precipitate, white at first, but turning blue on exposure to light.
Muriated barytes causes a slight cloudiness.
Oxalic acid produces scarcely any change.
The water renders a solution of soap in a slight degree turbid, but does not properly curdle it.
On boiling Tunbridge water for a few minutes, it becomes turbid throughout, and when filtered, leaves an oxyd of iron, which dried, is strongly magnetical: the remaining water will no longer discolour tincture of galls, or prussiated lime. During the ebullition a small quantity of gaz is given out, which when examined in proper vessels is found to be chiefly carbonic acid, mixed with a small portion of azotic gaz, and a little oxigen : the remaining water evaporated to dryness, yields a very small quantity of solid residuum.

The whole contents of a wine gallon, according to Doctor Babington's analysis, are the following :

Total 5 grains for the solid contents, and 16 cubic inches for the gazeous.

On a review of this analysis it will be found that it is a very pure water, as to the quantity of solid matter; and that the saline contents (the iron excepted) are such as may be found in almost any water that is used for common drink: it is therefore admirably suited to the general purposes of life, and excellently adapted to promote the great ends of the animal economy, nutrition and secretion. It is only as a chalybeate, and in the quantity of carbonic acid contained in it, that it differs from common water. Of this acid it contains about ^ of its bulk, enough to be indicated by chemical tests, though not to effervesce with the stronger acids, nor to give any striking properties of smell or taste. The quantity of iron according to this analysis, is very small, but it is sufficient to give the usual changes of colour with chemical tests, the very decided chalybeate taste, and (what is of more consequence) the well known effects of this metal on the human body. The sensible effects of this water are the following : soon after a person has taken a glass of it, he feels a pleasant sensation about the stomach, with a degree of warmth over the whole body; his pulse is raised in strength ; his spirits are exhilarated, and he feels more alive to the active pursuits, whether of business or pleasure ; it creates a sharp appetite ; acts powerfully as a diuretic; or when the weather is warm, and the body well cloathed, or when much and regular exercise is taken, increases perspiration.

At the commencement of a course, it is not uncommon immediately after taking a glass, for the patient to experience giddiness, head-ach, and drowsiness; or sometimes nausea, vomiting, and pain about the stomach; but these effects are transient, and gradually diminish on the further use of the waters, in all cases where there is no impropriety in their exhibition.

The effects of the waters on the bowels are not marked, except when these are foul, and loaded with bilious sordes, when it often purges briskly; they also tinge the foeces black; a circumstance of no other importance than as it sometimes excites a groundless alarm in the minds of patients. In their general operation then, they are tonic, diuretic, and diaphoretic; a very gentle stimulus, increasing the power of the secretory system ; a mild but active medical compound, well calculated to strengthen the stomach, promote digestion, cleanse the first passages, and purify the whole glandular system: hence they are particularly indicated in chronic diseases, and in all convalescent states, where weakness is the predominant symptom, and where organic disease and fever are absent. In debility of the digestive organs, especially if shewn by morning sickness, nausea and flatulent eructations, faintness and pain in the stomach; and in all the various train of symptoms arising from free-living and hard-drinking (unless these have so far continued as to produce a schirrous state of the liver, or dropsy), they are so eminently serviceable, that it would be worth while for all those, who from such causes, labour under indigestion, continued diarrhoea, hiccup, difficult respiration from sympathy with the stomach, and vomiting of viscid fluid, to make full trial of them.

In all cases where the mind is irritable and unsteady; where the desire for food fails, and unpleasant tastes are perceived ; where the bowels are irregular, either constipated or lax; where acidity, eructations, and dyspnoea, distress the sufferer;. where the skin is dry, the body unusually cold, or uncommonly hot by turns; where tremors, risings in the throat, and great depression of spirits, manifest themselves; where there is lassitude, and inaptitude to all kinds of motion, or great fatigue and profuse perspirations on moderate exertion; in short, in most of those symptoms known by the appellation of nervous, hysteric, and hypochondriac, these waters are particularly indicated. Thus they possess a high and deserved reputation in cachectic constitutions; in gouty affections and dyspepsia; in venous haemorrhages, fluor albus, gleets, diabetes, and in scrophulous and ricketty cases; in cases of dysury and gravel; in several diseases of the urinary organs; and in cutaneous affections: but it is in the cure of a variety of complaints incident to the female sex, that they are eminently serviceable. On the contrary, in diseases of an inflammatory nature, where a plethoric and too vigorous state of the system exists, the chalybeate acting as a tonic, and increasing that state of the body on which the disease depends, must be detrimental; hence in all constitutional head-achs, and determinations of blood to the head ; in vertigos, and tendency to apoplexy; in all inflammatory affections of the lungs, and in all visceral obstructions, these waters, by aggravating the febrile heat, are highly pernicious ; and from their incautious administration in such cases, have often obtained unmerited censure. Some persons are disposed to consider the influence of these waters on the human constitution as very trifling; and deem them incapable either of effecting the cures related to be performed by them, or of occasioning the mischief of which they have been frequently accused; but such opinions are contrary to the theory of their chemical properties, and daily refuted by examples.

Others, considering water as an universal medicine, are disposed to attribute the efficacy of mineral waters to the water itself; but the effects of pure and impregnated waters are by no means analogous; for common experience and medical observations prove, that the incautious use of the latter produces symptoms which neither the water itself, nor even the quantity of the ingredient contained in it, will satisfactorily account for.

The ingredients to which this water owes its medical agency are carbonic acid and iron; the former gives the agreeable smartness and poignancy, and contributes much to the activity of the other ingredients : it is capable of diminishing thirst; it lessens the morbid heat of the body, and acts as a powerful diuretic; it is also an excellent remedy in increased irritability of stomach, and is one of the best anti-emetics we possess: hence it has been administered as a medicine in various diseases. With respect to the latter, it is needless to urge any thing in support of its well-known power and influence. It is the safest and most friendly of all the metals as a remedy, and, as has been remarked by a celebrated chemist and physician, is perhaps the only metal among those possessing a medicinal agency that does not belong to the class of poisons. As a stimulant, it rouses the languid vessels to greater exertion quickens the pulsation of the heart, and augments the heat of the body; as a tonic, it gives strength to the muscular and nervous systems, bracing the stomach, improving digestion, and augmenting nutrition, so as to increase the elasticity of the muscular fibre, and excite the nervous energy. Farther, as it is a constituent part of the blood, and is also present in muscular fibre, it is evident that it must perform important offices in the animal body, and that material alterations must be produced, as it is present in greater or lesser proportions. It may be objected that the iron contained in these waters is in too small quantity to produce these effects; but without insisting upon the possibility (which is rendered more probable by the recent experiments of Mr. Accum on the Cheltenham chalybeate,) that some inaccuracy may exist in the analysis we have given, it should be recollected that the iron, though highly active in itself, is never used under the same form of composition elsewhere than in these waters; the looseness of its adhesion to the water with which it is combined, the mode in which it is dissolved, and the minute division of its particles, must all tend to increase the activity of this metal, and may thus enable the waters containing it, to perform cures, even when they have been in vain attemped by the combinations in the shops.

It is not easy to form physiological deductions of the medicinal agency of this water from the materials that are known to enter into its composition, and the author is aware how difficult it is, if not impossible, to ascertain the operation of any medical compound on the human body, and how subject speculations of that kind are to error, even when entered into by the ablest physicians; but as the following observations from an unpublished work (part of which accidentally fell in his way,) appear in some degree to elucidate the subject, he has thought them worthy of quotation.
" The theory of absorption, as it is performed by appropriate vessels
" from every cavity of the animal machine, as well as from the surface of
" the body; has long directed physicians in the particular application of
" various medicines. In order that any substance may act generally on the
" system, it has been found necessary to reduce it, either by mechanical
" means or chemical resolution, to such a state as shall render it fit to be
" taken by these vessels into the circulation. Now, as there are several
" vessels whose apertures are so small that they cannot receive the
" red particles of which the blood is composed, but transmit a clear
" pellucid lymph, it is not unphilosophical to suppose, that iron reduced
" to so fine a state as it is in the Tunbridge spa, may have greater
" influence by being carried into the circulation of the smaller capillary
" vessels, than if its action was limited to those only which contain red
" blood. That the smaller vessels are exceedingly irritable, no one will
" doubt who has ever observed the very slight causes which sometimes
" produce violent inflammation in the eyes. Acting therefore on such
" vessels, the effects resulting from the iron of this spa will be in a direct
" proportion to their irritability: these effects are not partial or unim
" portant, the great difference between health and disease arising, in all
" probability, more from some change in the action of the finest vessels
" than from any disorder in the larger. Where the insensible perspiration
" of the skin is interrupted, the stomach and head are affected, and a
" feverish heat or chilliness is occasioned; where those vessels are relaxed
" too much, the body is proportionately weakened, and if the
" relaxation exists in those vessels termed exhalants, which moisten the
" internal cavities of the body, dropsies, with all their dreadful symptoms,
" may often be the consequence. Certain it is, that the mineral waters
" produce a more powerful effect than is observable from any artificial
" preparation of iron ; whether this arises from the minute division with
" which chemical bodies are united to water so as to render them more
" diffusible over the whole system, and more active in the stomach; or
" that ;the acid of the stomach is more capable of acting upon the
" ferruginous principle when so diluted I will not attempt to prove. Nice as
" is the accuracy of the modern chemist in investigating the component
" parts of mineral waters, yet analysis is not so far to be depended upon
" as to supersede the experience of effects"

Having thus attempted to prove that these waters act powerfully on the animal machine, it will not be surprising that the author should consider more precaution in their use requisite, than from a mere inspection of their ingredients, might seem to be necessary; or that he should attempt to guard the inexperienced against that indiscriminate abuse of them which too generally prevails. Influenced by fashion, or the council of friends, numbers quit the most distant parts of the kingdom in the full confidence of repairing the waste of time, or the ill effects of imprudence, at these springs, no frame so shattered, but this fountain must strengthen, no complaints So inveterate, but it must finally remove: ignorant of the cause or nature of their disease, and regardless of symptoms, they commence a course in imprudence, and it is npt surprising they should often end it in disappointment.

As the cases in which these waters are prescribed are so various, the symptoms and degrees of inveteracy of diseases, as well as strength and peculiarity of constitution so very different, it would be a very great absurdity to pretend to give any general rule to be indiscriminately observed, either as to the quantity of water necessary to be taken by each person in a day, or the length of time necessary to continue to drink it; these circumstances can only be determined by the peculiarities attending the particular disease of every single person. Numbers, no doubt, are disappointed by their own impatience, discontinuing their use on the occurrence of some untoward symptom, or from not feeling immediate relief concluding they disagree with them, not reflecting how unreasonable it is to expect that the effects of a chronic disease, which have been years accumulating, should be removed or alleviated in a few days, or weeks; by any natural means whatever.

Though these waters are efficacious at all seasons of the year, yet the summer being more favorable for taking the exercise requisite in a course of them, is generally esteemed the best. The usual season for drinking them is from May to the end of October, and the most proper period of the day is undoubtedly in the morning, fasting, using some constant but gentle exercise for half an hour between every glass, and waiting at least the same space of time after the last glass, before breakfast. Those who have been used to indulge late in bed, and to eat as soon as they are out of it, often find it requires resolution, as well as time, to acquire this new habit of economy, and are apt to make complaints of a discouraging nature, all of which they refer to the waters disagreeing with them until a little perseverance convinces them of their error.

The prescribed method of drinking these waters is judicious: the whole of the quantity daily used, is taken at two or three intervals, beginning at about eight o'clock in the morning, and finishing at noon: the dose at each time varies from about one to three-quarters of a pint, according to the age, sex, and general constitution of the patient, and especially the duration of the course; for it is found that these waters lose much of their effect by long habit. The requisite duration of a course of these waters may be reckoned about from one to two months. If it does not disagree with the constitution, its beneficial effects in improving the appetite and digestive powers are soon felt, but if continued much longer than eight or ten weeks, without a considerable intermission, the stimulant effect gradually wears off, and becomes inadequate to complete a restoration to strength and vigour. It is scarcely necessary to remark, that this water should be drank on the spot, as it loses much of its activity on exposure, even for a short time, and that in most cases, its beneficial effects are increased by the exercise of riding or walking, according to the state of the patient, and the nature of the disease. The beauty of situation, and diversity of country, give a decided superiority to Tunbridge Wells over most other watering places; and entice the invalid to take daily exercise in an air which is excelled by none in the kingdom.

On beginning a course of these waters, it is absolutely requisite to premise some evacuation, either a gentle emetic where the stomach is foul, or, what is preferable, some opening medicine. It is also a common and judicious custom to intermit its use for a day or two after it has been regularly taken for a week or fortnight, and to clear the bowels during that interval by some proper aperient; or else to add a small quantity of vitriolated magnesia, or soda, to the water, and thus in fact, to convert it into I- purgative chalybeate. To persons of weak irritable stomachs, and especially females, the fresh drawn water is apt to prove too cold, and to occasion a nausea or sickness, which always defeats the general intention of the medicine: this inconvenience is easily prevented by giving the water a tepid warmth; and to do this it is by far the best method to put it into a bottle closely corked, and to immerse the whole in hot water, thereby in part preventing the escape of the carbonic acid. It is frequently of considerable service during a course of these waters, especially in chlorosis, to employ the warm bath occasionally.

With respect to diet it may be remarked, that most of the diseases in which this water is of use require a generous temperament rather than a a severe abstinence, but the patient should be cautious not to indulge himself too much, or to take this advice as a permission to exceed the bounds of moderation. His meals should be light (the use of vegetables, or of summer fruits, provided they are ripe and eaten sparingly, are not to be objected to), and care should be taken not to indulge the sharp appetite which the waters occasion, too freely. The golden rule of Armstrong should not be overlooked:
" When dinner comes, amid the varied feast,
" That crowns the genial board, where every guest,
" Or grave or gay, is happy, and at home,
" And none e'er sigh'd for the mind's elbow room;
" I warn you still to make your chief repast
" On one plain dish, and trifle with the rest."

One impropriety in the article of diet seems to have been overlooked by every physician except Dr. Garnet, who judiciously inveighs against the use of tea, during the course of the waters; a simple experiment must convince every one of the truth of his remarks. If a little of the infusion of tea be mixed with the Tunbridge waters, the mixture assumes a purple colour inclining to black, nearly as when tincture of galls is added to the water; when the mixture is suffered to stand for some time, the iron will be all precipitated in the form of black powder: the same will undoubtedly take place in the stomach and first passages, if a chalybeate water is drank within an hour or two after tea. Since, therefore, the iron contained in the aerated chalybeate water owes its efficacy to its union with the carbonic acid, tea, by precipitating it from its solvent, must destroy its effects. From hence it must be obvious that, independent of the impropriety of tea to those who labour under nervous complaints, and disorders of the stomach, which almost any one will be ready to allow, it would be highly improper, during the use of these waters. The remedy is simple - a breakfast of chocolate, or cocoa, or (if it is found to agree) milk, may be substituted.

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